INTERVIEW Crafters and
INTERVIEW Crafters and knitters are returning to their passion Michael Brosnahan, CEO of SAMIL, unpacks the effects of the Covid-19 lockdown on the mohair industry. Michael Brosnahan, CEO With people at home during the Covid-19 lockdown, was there greater demand from creative people? Happily for SAMIL the crafters and knitters of the world took refuge in their art, many of them returning to their passion, with time on their hands. The demand for our hand knitting and crochet yarns increased dramatically during the hard lockdown periods and this increase in demand shows no signs of abating. What were other effects of the pandemic? Sadly, the effect on farmers and processors was quite devastating financially, particularly in the months of April to June, when we were unable to export our mohair tops. This obviously impacted all who are employed in the industry by way of significantly reduced income. We are very grateful for the assistance provided by the government via the UIF TERS system which helped to reduce the impact. BIOGRAPHY Michael emigrated from the UK to KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa in 1981 in order to take up the position of Quality Assurance Manager with the Frame Group. A chartered member of the Textile Institute in South Africa, he has managed several large textile companies since then. Mooi River Textiles was awarded Cotton Spinner of the Year for three consecutive years under his leadership. He was appointed CEO of Samil Natural Fibres in Port Elizabeth in 2016. How will the “new normal” affect the mohair industry? Providing that South Africa and other countries do not return to a hard lockdown situation, it should not have a further impact. Demand for high-fashion goods will always be there and due to the reduction in availability caused by the ongoing drought conditions in the Karoo region, where most of the mohair is farmed, demand outstrips supply. Is there a growing awareness of the importance of sustainability among customers? There is no doubt that the consumer of today makes purchase decisions no longer merely on price alone, but also on their understanding of the ethicality of the manufacturing process. They want to know that the goods have not harmed the environment in any way. This concern extends further to the welfare of the people producing the items and the treatment of the animals. The Responsible Mohair Standard is an established set of rules drawn up by the global non-profit organisation, Textile Exchange. These rules govern all aspects of the mohair industry, from the care of the environment to the welfare of the animals and all the individuals employed in the industry. ■ SOUTH AFRICAN BUSINESS 2021 54 42
Sharing Africa’s beauty with the Sharing world Africa’s beauty with the world SAMIL produces and processes SAMIL mohair, produces the noble and processes fibre. mohair, the noble fibre. South African African Mohair Mohair Industries Industries Limited (SAMIL) Limited is the (SAMIL) link between is the mohair link producers, between processors producers, and consumers. processors Our vision and consumers. is to be an Our in- mohair novative vision South is to be African innovative company South specialising African company in the production specialising and in processing the production of natural and processing fibres, as of well natural as speciality fibres, as spun well yarns. as speciality spun yarns. Mohair, Mohair, the the fleece fleece of the of the Angora Angora goat, goat, is: is: • the the noble noble fibre, fibre, known known as the as the diamond diamond fibre fibre • lustrous, lustrous, resilient resilient and and offers offers exceptional exceptional colour colour reflection reflection • one one of of the the world’s world’s most most beautiful beautiful sustainable sustainable natural fibres natural fibres • a symbol of luxury and exclusivity. • a symbol of luxury and exclusivity. African Expressions African Expressions Our local brand African Expressions was born of the Our local brand African Expressions was born of the desire to share Africa’s natural beauty with the rest desire of the to world. share Africa’s Through natural our beauty unique with range the of rest yarns, of the world. we express Through the our essence unique of range that which of yarns, makes we express Africa the magical. essence Our of network that which of local makes farmers, Africa who magical. farm Our in network optimal Angora of local farmers, goat conditions, who farm breed in optimal stock Angora which goat bear conditions, excellent breed fibres. stock This which ensures bear that excellent our yarns fibres. This are ensures naturally that soft our to yarns the are touch, naturally easy soft to to knit the touch, and easy luxuriously to knit and versatile. luxuriously versatile. SAMIL divisions Farming: SAMIL Farming, was established with the primary objective of stabilising and possibly increasing mohair supply to the processors. Combing: SAMIL Natural Fibres Combing is is in in Berlin, outside East London in the Eastern Cape. As mohair processing has decreased in other parts of the world, SAMIL Combing has become one of the world’s leading processors. Unlike many processing plants SAMIL Combing focusses on and is committed to to processing only mohair. Trading: Through a strong support base of of affiliated companies, partners partners and agents, and agents, SAMIL has SAMIL established has strong established connections strong connections throughout the throughout world for the the purchase world for and the sale purchase of raw materials and sale and of finished raw materials goods. South and finished Africa processes goods. in South excess Africa of 80% processes of the world’s in mohair excess production. of 80% of the The world’s advantage mohair of production. having both The topmaking advantage and of spinning having operations both top-making in South and Africa, spinning as well as operations access to raw in South material Africa, produced as well within as access the company, to raw material produced within the company, is that SAMIL is that SAMIL is able to offer lots guaranteed from origin, is able to offer lots guaranteed from origin, a rare a rare luxury in today’s business environment. luxury in today’s business environment. Spinning and dyeing: SAMIL Spinning is a global Spinning and dyeing: SAMIL Spinning is a global manufacturer of outstanding quality mohair yarns, manufacturer of outstanding quality mohair yarns, producing a wide and exclusive range of mohair and producing a wide and exclusive range of mohair mohair and mohair blended blended fancy fancy and fine-spun and fine-spun yarns in yarns both fine-count in both fine-count and coarser and varieties. coarser We varieties. are internationally We are renowned internationally for our renowned superior for product our superior range and product cater for range the and hand cater knitting, for the machine hand knitting, knitting, machine weaving, hosiery knitting, and weaving, decor markets. hosiery Although and decor we markets. specialise in Although pure mohair, we specialise we also in blend pure mohair, we with also a blend range of mohair other with natural a range and of man-made other natural fibres. and Yarns man-made can be custom fibres. Yarns dyed can to any be shade custom at dyed SAMIL’s to state any shade of the art at dye SAMIL’s house. state of the art dye house. Genetic research: The latest venture under the SAMIL umbrella is the research project called ANGELA which aims to enhance Angora goats and the mohair industry, from increasing kidding rates to the improvement of the different hair qualities. The project will make available its results to all in the mohair farming community. Contact details Tel: +27 41 486 2430 Email: yarns@samil.co.za Website: Contact www.samil.co.za details Tel: +27 41 486 2430 Email: yarns@samil.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN BUSINESS 2021 Website: www.samil.co.za
